The 2018 Brooks Bird Club Fall Retreat – Tygart Lake State Park

The Brooks Bird Club had their fall reunion and membership meeting at Tygart Lake State Park near Grafton, WV.   Since the trees are late to change this year, the view was not typical of WV in the fall, but the weather was good for hiking.


Photo (c) Bill Beatty


Our accommodations – Top to bottom – Tygart Lake Lodge, lodge lobby, and our room.

The Tygart Lake SP staff was wonderful.  All the BBCers at the get-together took full advantage of the comfortable lobby and great view between activities and before and after meals.

Jan and I arrived early enough to get settled in and take a walk behind the lodge, along the lake.   One plant I noticed right away was poison ivy.  Poison ivy vines were climbing many of the trees.  For birders that’s a plus since so many kinds of birds like to feed on poison ivy berries.


A poison ivy vine and an Eastern Bluebird feeding on poison ivy berries.  (Photos (c) Bill Beatty)

downy woodpecker (Dendrocopos pubescens) on poison ivy branch wi

Downy Woodpecker feeding on poison ivy berries.  (Photo (c) Bill Beatty)

The lake had been drawn down for the winter, so part of our walk would have been under water in the summertime.  We noticed people fishing from shore as well as from boats while we were there.  Our walk wasn’t long, but we found some interesting things near the lake.


Jan looking at some Mustard Yellow Polypore Fungi (Polyporus gilvus).  (Photos (c) Bill Beatty)

Jan is a Board of Trustees member for the Brooks Bird Club which, for me, translates to — I get to go exploring while she is at the board meeting.  I decided to hike the 2 mile Dogwood Trail near the lodge.


The state park offers a number of trails.

The Dogwood Trail contains a series of switch-backs that climb to the top of a ridge and follow it for a while.  Then the trail comes back down the other side.  The trail is wooded along almost all of its length.

dogwood trail

Photos (c) Bill Beatty

The most noticeable thing for me were the frequent groves of Pawpaw trees.  Most of the trees were smaller, but several were large enough to produce fruit.


Pawpaw Tree (Asimina triloba) grove and ripening pawpaws  (Photos (c) Bill Beatty)

I saw a Comma Butterfly feeding on a fallen pawpaw.  I could understand that since pawpaws are one of my favorite fruits, too.


Comma Butterfly (Polygonia c-album)  (Photos (c) Bill Beatty)

There were many plants and fungi that made the hike more interesting for me.  Christmas Ferns (Polystichum acrostichoides) seemed to be everywhere.

Christmas fern sori (Polystichum acrostichoides)

Photo (c) Bill Beatty

Spicebush (Lindera benzoin) was the dominant shrub.

spicebush berries (Lindera benzoin)

Photo (c) Bill Beatty

I saw only one American Holly (Ilex opaca), but it was loaded with berries … good news for the birds.

F American holly tree (Ilex opaca) berries

Photo (c) Bill Beatty

Along the level part of the Dogwood Trail, high on the ridge, there were so many dead American Ash trees that it looked like a tornado had blown through the area.  The trees had been killed by the Emerald Ash Borer (Agrilus planipennis) and had been cut down for safety reasons.


Downed American Ash trees (Fraxinus americana)  (Photos (c) Bill Beatty)

On several trees where the bark had fallen off there were Emerald Ash Borer larvae trails.


Larvae trails and active larva  (Left photo (c) Bill Beatty)

One of the wildflower plants I saw was the leaf of a Cranefly Orchid (Tipularia discolor).


Cranefly Orchid (Tipularia discolor) leaf  (Photo (c) Bill Beatty)

Having so much wet weather this year has been good for many kinds of fungi.  It wasn’t hard for me to find a number of different species.


Left – Turkey-tail Fungus (Trametes versicolor);  right – old Pear-shaped Puffballs (Lycoperdon pyriforme)  (Photos (c) Bill Beatty)

On Saturday some of the BBC members went to Pleasant Creek Wildlife Management Area to look for birds, while others of us decided to hike in the park.  We started with seven hikers, but Jeannie and Cindy wanted a more vigorous hike so they charged ahead of the rest of us.


Photo (c) Bill Beatty

The Woodland Trail is a short hike, but even at this time of year there were lots of interesting things to see.  And the trail is definitely in the woodlands.


Photos (c) Bill Beatty

Tom and Dawn stopped frequently to inspect the ferns along the way (one of their specialties).  There were lots to see.  Most abundant were the Christmas Ferns.


Left – Black-footed Polypore (Royoporus badius) and right, Ebony Spleenwort (Asplenium   platyneuron)  (Photos (c) Bill Beatty)


Photo (c) Bill Beatty

After finishing the Woodland Trail, we started the Ridge Trail.  Soon we came upon a log covered in edible Combs-tooth/Lion’s Mane fungi (Hericium sp.).


Comb’s Tooth/Lion’s Mane fungus  (Photos (c) Bill Beatty)

We collected all the fresh specimens and took them back with us.  The mushrooms were sauteed and served at supper for anyone who wanted to try this delicious wild food.


Left photo (c) Bill Beatty;   right photo (c) Jan Runyan

The Ridge Trail ended at a rustic bridge over a scenic stream.  Although we had hiked only 2 miles in all, we had seen lots of interesting things.  We were finished in time to savor the hearty lunch packed for us by the park and have the BBC Board Members back in time for their last session of the board meeting.


(Photos (c) Bill Beatty)

There is always something special and unique in each WV state park we visit.  Jan and I have talked about returning to Tygart Lake SP when the lake is full to kayak along the wooded edges of the lake and maybe try our luck at fishing, too.


A Celebration with Friends in the Mountains of West Virginia – Great Food, Laughing, Hiking, Singing and Spending Time with Each Other at Some of our Favorite Natural Places

This isn’t our usual type of post … but then nothing about this weekend was usual … except the beauty and diversity of our incredible Appalachian Mountains.

Where to begin?  It is a bit difficult for me to explain it all.  The short of it is that, for over a year, Jan had been planning this 3-day get together with hiking friends to celebrate my 70th birthday … and it was an absolute, total surprise to me.  I had no idea!  It was, without a doubt, the best time I have ever had playing in the mountains of West Virginia!

The story I was told was that we were going to the Canaan Valley area so that Jan and our friend Shelia could attend a Fiber-arts workshop.  That would give Jeff and me some time to go hiking on Dolly Sods.  The truth of it was … there was no workshop at Ben’s Loom Barn and … well, let me tell you all about it.

The trip started just like any other trip to the mountains.  The van seemed to have more than we would normally need for a weekend trip to the mountains, but I didn’t think much about it.  As usual, Jan and I always stop at Saffiticker’s and the Farmer’s Market/Candyland in Maryland on our way to and from the high mountains of West Virginia.  She seemed to be buying a lot of cheese and snacks, but, oh well.


(Photos (c) Bill Beatty and Jan Runyan)

For some unknown reason Jan had been a bit mysterious about where we would be staying.  I had just assumed it would be somewhere in Canaan Valley.  I thought it was strange when Jan told me to turn onto the Blackwater Falls State Park road and it was even more odd when we eventually parked in front of one of the deluxe 4bedroom cabins.


Jan asked me to stay in the van for a moment while she did something in the back.  From what I could see through the rear view mirror I thought she was putting together political signs, which made no sense at all to me.   Then she brought them to the front of the van and showed me ………


Signs she designed on the Build-a-Sign site. (Photos (c) Bill Beatty and Jan Runyan)

I started grinning and never stopped for days.

The “deluxe” cabins really are a treat with a utensil-stocked kitchen and lots of space to enjoy a group of friends.  I had no idea what was coming next … well, really … what was coming all weekend.


Our accommodations.

Singly or in pairs, friends started arriving.  Wonderful food had been brought so that we didn’t have to go out to eat that evening, but could just stay there as people arrived.  Turns out we actually had two 4-bedroom cabins, some people camping in the campground, some coming from their homes nearby, and some traveling there for just a day.


Thursday night supper in the cabin  (Photo (c) Jan Runyan)

Later, we welcomed our last visitor of the evening, my long-time friend, Chip Chase, who lives in Canaan Valley.


(Photo (c) Jan Runyan)

Chip brought a gift of apple-moonshine and after it was passed around, Carla got out her new guitar to show him.  Chip began to play and created a very appropriate song about my birthday celebration.  We were all amazed and delighted how the lyrics and music just flowed out!


(video (c) Jan Runyan)

Friday was a hiking day as more friends arrived, but Jan had reserved tables at Amelia’s and Sirianis for lunch and supper respectively – soooooo, we had a time schedule to keep.


Planning for our Friday morning hike  (Photo (c) Bill Beatty)

It was decided to do the Beall North Trail  in the Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge that morning.


Photos (c) Jan Runyan

After hiking part of the Beall North Trail, we took the turn onto the Blackwater View Trail and hiked out to a pretty site overlooking a section of the Blackwater River.  I wasn’t sure why Jan kept checking her watch and insisted that we not go farther on the Blackwater View Trail.   But we turned around at the overlook and finished the Beall North Trail.


Photos (c) Bill Beatty

The weather (shorts-weather just a few days before) had turned significantly cooler and fall-like during the night, so it was perfect for hiking.


Photos (c) Bill Beatty

We chatted along the way and stopped occasionally to see interesting Nature items.


Left photo (c) Bill Beatty;  right photo (c) Jan Runyan

We are so fortunate that all of these friends have so much in common — we enjoy Nature, hiking, West Virginia and each other.


The hikers at Amelia’s for lunch  (Photo (c) Bill Beatty)

The reason it was so important to be at Amelia’s on time was because of a special visitor who met us there:  my long-time friend, Conley, the “Monster of Botany”, from Virginia.  I was really surprised.


Conley and Bill (Photo (c) Jan Runyan)

After lunch we hiked the Idlemans Run Trail, a short trail that is so full of scenic beauty, botanical wonders and interesting geology that it takes quite awhile to traverse it.


Photos (c) Jan Runyan


Left photo (c) Bill Beatty;  right photo (c) Jan Runyan

As usual, there was much discussion about plants with the “Monster of Botany”.  Martin discovered what some refer to as Palm Tree Moss … quite aptly named.


Photos (c) Jan Runyan

Last summer when Jan and I had explored this trail, we had found a rare fern.  We remembered the spot and, now 3 1/2 months later, we were able to find 2 of the 6 tiny Daisy-leaf Moonworts we had located in late June.


Left photo (c) Jan Runyan;  right photo (c) Bill Beatty

It seemed like everywhere we turned on this trail, there were interesting things to examine.


Left – Pinesap (Monotropa hypopitys), a saprophyte of oaks and pines;  right – Horse Hoof Fungus (Fomes fomentarius) on a dead American Beech Tree  (Photos (c) Jan Runyan)

Martin explained the different kinds of rocks and geological structures we saw.


Checking out some geology along Idlemans Run  (Photos (c) Jan Runyan)

Although the trail is short, it took us most of the afternoon.  Even during the short walk back to the cars on the Forest Service Road 80, we saw interesting, delicious things … which made us think about dinner.


Talking botany I’m sure.  We found large groupings of Honey Mushrooms (Armillaria sp.)  (Photos (c) Jan Runyan)

So … on to dinner!  Sixteen of us headed to one of my favorite restaurants, Sirianni’s Cafe in Davis.  Oh Mike Goss!!!  (try it sometime)


Sirianni’s Cafe for supper

Then we returned for more laughter and stories at the cabin.


Relaxing back at the cabin after supper  (Photos (c) Jan Runyan)

On Saturday morning we had planned to take a longer, rugged hike (Allegheny Front Vista Trail) on Dolly Sods but the weather had turned even colder and snowy.  The high winds blowing snow and ice made me reconsider that trail due to the possibility of slippery rock fields.  Instead I decided on a shorter, safer hike to Castle Rocks along the Allegheny Front.  I have some wonderfully crazy friends!  The saner, wonderful friends stayed at the cabin and waited to thaw out the 7 of us when we returned.  (Cue the “Gilligan’s Island” theme song …. see end for the full lyrics)

(video (c)  Jan Runyan)


Left and middle photos (c) Lee Miller;  right photo (c) Jan Runyan.

The wind was howling and the snow/ice was almost impossible to look into, but we had a hearty group with proper cold-weather gear for an icy, snowy, windy hike.

(video (c) Jan Runyan)

We understood first hand how the conifers on the open plateau get to be “flagged”, with only a few, tiny branches on the windward west side.

When we reached Castle Rocks, we hid from the wind and relaxed on the leeward side.  After a while, the snow stopped, the clouds began to break up and blew east to pile up above the famous view of mountain ridges which opened before us.


Photo (c) Bill Beatty


Hiking north along the Allegheny Front  (Photos (c) Jan Runyan)

In a normal fall, the plants in the heath meadows around Castle Rocks would be bright crimson, gold and orange with incredible fall colors.  Below are 3 photos Jan and I took during a hike there in 2012.


Photos looking south and east from Castle Rocks during a good fall color season in 2012.  (Photos (c) Bill Beatty)

Lady on rock formation

Looking east toward Castle Rocks (and Jan) in 2012.  (Photo (c) Bill Beatty)

After our hearty crew waded through head-high brush to return to the road, several of us decided to explore a now-defunct beaver lodge nearby.


Photos (c) Jan Runyan

After our Dolly Sods hike we returned to the cabins at Blackwater Falls State Park for lunch.  Then we traveled 4 miles to Thomas, WV, where the God-daughter of two hiking friends was performing at the Purple Fiddle.


The Purple Fiddle and Kipyn Martin

Kipyn performs many of her own songs and some from Joni Mitchell.  I asked her if she was going to sing Joni Mitchell’s “Big Yellow Taxi”, my favorite Nature-advocacy song.  She hadn’t planned to, but said she would sing it for me … and she did, dedicating the song to me.  The whole concert was amazing and having that song as the finale was like the cherry on top of a sundae!


Kipyn Martin with Bill (Photo (c) Jan Runyan)

Following Kipyn’s performance, we ordered food from the Farm Up Truck.  This was the dinner Jan had planned after getting rave reviews about their food.  We took a whole box of delicious-smelling food back to the cabin for supper.


Farm Up Truck

All weekend we had a plethora of wonderful, scrumptious food!


(Right photo (c) Jan Runyan)

On Sunday morning most of our group left for home, but several of us met up with two other hiking friends for one last hike — the Moon Rocks Trail adjacent to the northern end of the Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge.


Moon Rocks Trail hikers  (Photo (c) Bill Beatty)


Photo (c) Bill Beatty

Again we hiked through a variety of habitats, seeing many different, interesting plants and WV geology.


Left, Turkey Tail fungus; right, Waxy Cap Mushrooms  (Photos (c) Bill Beatty)

At the top of the Moon Rocks Trail, we discovered that there really is an American flag on the moon (rocks).


At the top of Moon Rocks Trail  (Photo (c) Jan Runyan)

At the end of the section we hiked was a large wetland with a beautiful stand of Cottongrass in full cotton.


Cottongrass  (Left photo (c) Bill Beatty;  right photo (c) Jan Runyan)

After our hike we stopped for lunch at another of my favorite restaurants …  Hellbenders Burritos in Davis, West Virginia.



And, as always, one of our last stops on the way home was Saffitickers … which was still open for this, their last day of the season!


Photos (c) Jan Runyan

I would like to thank all of the people who helped Jan, those who came to help me celebrate — Ashton, Bev, Carla, Chip, Cindy, Conley, Dawn, Doug, Jacquie, Jeff, Jim, John, Kimberlee, Lee, Martin, Randy, Rebecca, Sheila, and Tom  (and the ones Jan tells me wanted to come but couldn’t), and those who kept this hiking trip a secret, even when I saw them just a few days before the trip!

There’s nothing better than Appalachian Nature, the West Virginia mountains, and all of my wonderful friends!

Thank you Jan Runyan – you are the best!



Beatty’s Isle Song (to the tune of “Gilligan’s Isle”)

Just sit right back and you’ll hear a tale,      A tale of a fateful trip.    That started from a mountain port      Into a wind that ripped.

The mate was a Master Naturalist,     The skipper brave and true.     Five brave hikers joined them that day     On a 3 hour tour.

The wind was howling full of snow,      The tiny group was tossed.      If not for the reck’ning of the fearless guide,      The hikers would be lost.

The group found refuge on the leeward side      Of Beatty’s Castle Rocks.      With Lee Miller;        Bill Beatty, too;     Randy Kesling and Dawn Fox;    with Jan Runyan;        Martin Tingley and Rebecca W.,

There on wild Dolly Sods!